Helping Australians Choose Wisely.

Understand before you buy

Electric Car vs Petrol or Diesel: Which Should You Buy in Australia?

Compare electric, petrol and diesel cars in Australia, including purchase price, charging, fuel, servicing, range, towing, insurance and total ownership costs.

Australian driver comparing an electric car with a petrol or diesel vehicle

An electric vehicle can be cheaper and more convenient to run when you can charge at home, drive regularly and choose a model that comfortably covers your real trips. Petrol or diesel remains the better decision when you already own a reliable car, drive relatively little, cannot install dependable charging, regularly tow or travel through remote areas, or would pay a large price premium to change vehicles.

Quick answer: Do not replace a sound petrol or diesel car simply because electricity costs less than fuel. Compare the total cost of changing vehicles—not just energy per kilometre. An EV is most compelling for a driver with secure home charging, predictable daily travel and enough annual kilometres to recover the purchase and installation costs. Keeping your present car can be the smarter financial decision when it remains reliable and suitable.
There is no universal winner. Purchase price, finance, depreciation, insurance, home-charger installation, electricity tariffs, public-charging prices, fuel use, servicing, tyres, registration and tax treatment can outweigh one another. Use quotes and figures for the exact vehicles you are comparing.

Electric vs petrol vs diesel at a glance

Factor Electric vehicle Petrol vehicle Diesel vehicle
Purchase price Often higher for a comparable new vehicle, although the gap varies widely Usually the widest choice at lower and middle price points Can cost more than petrol, particularly in SUVs and utes
Energy cost Usually lowest with economical home charging; public fast charging costs more Sensitive to fuel price and consumption Can be economical on long highway trips but fuel price matters
Routine servicing Fewer drivetrain service items, but tyres, brakes, suspension and cooling still require attention Established servicing network and predictable maintenance Can suit heavy work but emissions and fuel-system repairs may be expensive
Daily convenience Excellent when charged where it is parked overnight Fast refuelling and broad fuel availability Fast refuelling and strong regional availability
Long-distance travel Requires charger planning and extra time on some routes Simple for metropolitan, regional and remote travel Often strong range and practical for remote or heavy-duty use
Towing Strong torque, but towing can sharply reduce range and complicate charging access Suitable when vehicle ratings and fuel range meet the job Often preferred for frequent heavy towing and long distances
Best fit Regular driving with reliable home or workplace charging Mixed use, lower kilometres and maximum refuelling flexibility Highway kilometres, load carrying, towing and some remote use

The first question: should you replace your present car at all?

The cheapest vehicle is often the reliable one already in your driveway. A new EV may save thousands of dollars in fuel and servicing over several years, yet still leave you financially behind if changing cars requires a large purchase, new finance, dealer charges, stamp duty, comprehensive insurance and rapid early depreciation.

Before comparing drivetrains, calculate:

  • the realistic sale or trade-in value of your present car;
  • the complete drive-away price of the replacement;
  • loan interest or the return forgone by spending cash;
  • charger, electrical and parking-related costs;
  • insurance and registration differences;
  • expected energy and servicing savings; and
  • how long you genuinely expect to keep the replacement.

If changing vehicles costs an extra $35,000 and saves $2,500 a year, a simple break-even period is 14 years before finance, depreciation and other differences. That does not make the EV a bad car; it means fuel savings alone do not justify this particular change.

Separate two decisions: “Which drivetrain should my next car use?” is different from “Should I replace my current car now?” An EV may be the better next purchase while keeping your existing car remains the better decision today.

When an electric car makes the most sense

You can charge at home

Home charging changes the ownership experience. You can plug in after arriving home and begin most days with the required range. The Australian Government’s Green Vehicle Guide states that home-charging cost depends on the electricity plan and that public charging is generally more expensive.

A standard outlet may be enough for a driver who travels modest distances and parks for many hours. A dedicated wall charger can add energy faster, but its installation cost depends on the switchboard, cable route, parking position, electrical capacity and whether strata or a landlord must approve the work.

You drive enough kilometres to benefit from lower running costs

Electricity bought at a sensible residential tariff can cost substantially less per kilometre than petrol or diesel. The saving becomes more valuable for commuters and fleet users covering many kilometres. A low-kilometre driver may save too little each year to recover a higher purchase price quickly.

Your normal trips fit comfortably inside real-world range

An EV works best when ordinary travel uses only part of the battery. Allow for motorway speed, cold or very hot weather, hills, passengers, air conditioning, battery ageing and unexpected detours rather than planning around the advertised maximum.

You can keep the car for several years

Keeping a vehicle longer spreads purchase and installation costs over more time. Constantly replacing cars can make depreciation more important than any energy saving.

You have a genuinely favourable salary-packaging arrangement

Eligible electric cars and associated expenses can qualify for an Australian fringe benefits tax exemption when the statutory conditions are satisfied. The ATO states that plug-in hybrids generally stopped qualifying from 1 April 2025 except where transitional requirements are met.

A novated lease is not automatically a bargain. Compare the vehicle price, interest or lease rate, administration fees, residual value, insurance, charging assumptions and effect on take-home pay against buying privately. Obtain tax advice for your circumstances.

When petrol or diesel remains the better choice

Your current car is reliable and paid off

Keeping it avoids the largest immediate cost: buying another vehicle. A well-maintained petrol or diesel car may remain cheaper overall for years, especially when annual kilometres are low.

You cannot secure dependable charging

Apartment residents, renters and people parking on the street may not control the electrical supply or parking space. Relying entirely on public charging can remove much of the cost and convenience advantage and creates exposure to queues, outages, incompatible locations and variable pricing.

You regularly drive remote routes

Australia’s fast-charging network continues to grow, but coverage and reliability are not uniform. Remote trips require checking charger locations, operating status, plug compatibility, access hours and alternatives. Petrol and diesel still provide easier refuelling across many regional routes.

You frequently tow a caravan, boat or heavy trailer

Electric motors provide immediate torque, but towing increases energy consumption and can reduce range considerably. Some charging bays require the trailer to be disconnected. A suitable diesel or petrol vehicle may remain more practical when heavy towing is frequent and time or charger access matters.

Your budget points to a proven used petrol car

The used EV market is expanding, but buyers at lower price points still have far more petrol options. A common, well-understood model with affordable parts and local repair support may be a safer purchase than an unfamiliar EV with uncertain condition or limited regional support.

What about a hybrid?

A conventional hybrid can reduce fuel use without needing to be plugged in. It often suits metropolitan driving, where regenerative braking and low-speed electric assistance are useful. It retains the refuelling convenience of petrol but still has an engine, exhaust, fuel system and related servicing requirements.

A plug-in hybrid can complete shorter trips on electricity and use fuel for longer journeys, but only delivers its best result when charged regularly. Carrying both powertrains adds complexity and weight. Since 1 April 2025, newly arranged plug-in hybrids generally do not qualify for the electric-car FBT exemption unless transitional conditions apply.

A hybrid is not automatically the compromise everyone needs. Compare its actual fuel consumption on your route, purchase premium, boot space, towing rating and long-term complexity.

Petrol or diesel if you do not choose electric?

Petrol usually suits

  • shorter and mixed urban trips;
  • lower annual kilometres;
  • buyers wanting the widest model choice;
  • drivers who do not tow heavily very often; and
  • owners wanting to avoid modern diesel emissions-system complications.

Diesel usually suits

  • frequent long highway journeys;
  • heavy towing within the vehicle’s rated limits;
  • utes and large vehicles carrying substantial loads; and
  • routes where long range and regional fuel access are important.

A modern diesel used mainly for repeated short trips may not reach the conditions needed to manage its diesel particulate filter properly. Repair costs for injectors, turbochargers and emissions equipment can erase fuel savings. Follow the manufacturer’s usage and servicing instructions.

Calculate energy cost properly

Use the vehicle’s realistic consumption and the price you will actually pay.

EV cost per 100km = electricity consumption in kWh/100km × electricity price per kWh.
Fuel cost per 100km = fuel consumption in L/100km × fuel price per litre.

For illustration only:

  • an EV using 18kWh/100km at $0.30/kWh costs $5.40 per 100km;
  • a petrol car using 8L/100km at $1.90/L costs $15.20 per 100km; and
  • the indicative difference is $9.80 per 100km.

At 15,000km a year, that example produces an energy difference of about $1,470 annually. It excludes charging losses, demand charges, public-charging premiums, solar opportunity cost, fuel-price changes and every other ownership cost.

Do not describe rooftop solar charging as free

Solar electricity may have had an installation cost and could otherwise earn a feed-in tariff or supply the home. It can still make EV charging very economical, but use the value of the electricity forgone rather than pretending its cost is zero.

Home charging: check the real installation

Ask a licensed electrician to assess:

  • switchboard condition and available capacity;
  • single-phase or three-phase supply;
  • distance between switchboard and parking space;
  • cable routing, protection and weather exposure;
  • load management with solar, batteries and large appliances;
  • strata, landlord or council requirements; and
  • whether the vehicle accepts the proposed charging rate.

The Green Vehicle Guide’s calculator uses battery size, charging power and tariff to estimate home charging time and cost. A larger charger does not guarantee that the car will accept all available power.

Electrical safety: Do not use an unsuitable extension lead, adaptor or damaged outlet to charge an EV. Use equipment approved for the vehicle and have permanent charging work completed by a properly licensed electrician.

Public charging is not the same as refuelling

Advertised rapid-charging speed is usually a peak, not a constant rate. Charging slows as the battery fills and varies with battery temperature, charger output, shared capacity and the vehicle’s charging curve. Many drivers stop near 80% on long trips because the final portion can take disproportionately longer.

Before buying, examine your real long-distance routes:

  1. Locate compatible chargers in both directions.
  2. Check whether the operator needs an app, account or payment card.
  3. Identify a backup charger before the battery becomes low.
  4. Check whether towing access is practical.
  5. Allow for queues during holiday periods.
  6. Review current prices rather than assuming public charging is cheap.

Range: buy for the difficult trip, but not an imaginary one

The Green Vehicle Guide notes that many EVs sold in Australia can travel more than 400km under their published test figures. Real-world range varies. Motorway speed, heat, cold, hills, roof racks, towing, payload and climate control can all reduce it.

Do not pay for an enormous battery solely for a journey made once a year if a practical charging stop or another transport option solves it. Equally, do not choose a marginal-range vehicle when you regularly make a demanding trip with no reliable backup.

Battery life and warranty

EV batteries gradually lose usable capacity. The rate depends on chemistry, thermal management, charging behaviour, climate, kilometres and time. The Green Vehicle Guide advises following manufacturer guidance and limiting unnecessary fast charging; it also suggests keeping the battery between roughly 20% and 80% where practical to support battery life.

Read the battery warranty for:

  • years and kilometre limit;
  • the minimum retained-capacity threshold;
  • measurement and claim procedures;
  • commercial-use exclusions;
  • transferability to later owners; and
  • what repair or replacement the manufacturer may provide.

Australian Consumer Law rights can apply in addition to a written warranty. The ACCC states that voluntary and extended warranties cannot remove consumer guarantees.

Servicing, tyres and repairs

EVs do not require engine oil, spark plugs or exhaust-system servicing and generally have fewer moving drivetrain parts. They still need tyres, wheel alignment, suspension, brakes, cabin filters, air-conditioning service, coolant checks where specified and software or safety-system attention.

Regenerative braking can reduce friction-brake wear, but heavier vehicle weight and strong acceleration can increase tyre wear. Insurance-approved repair access, replacement parts and trained technicians differ by brand and location. Obtain an insurance quote before ordering the car.

Depreciation and resale risk

Resale value can outweigh energy savings. EV prices, technology and new-model competition have been changing quickly, while petrol and diesel resale values also vary with fuel prices, regulation and buyer demand.

Use conservative resale assumptions. Do not assume a present discount will continue, or that a high original purchase price guarantees a high used value. If keeping the car for a long time, short-term price movements matter less, but parts support and battery condition matter more.

Buying a used EV

A used EV can reduce the upfront gap, but inspect more than the odometer. Check:

  • remaining vehicle and battery warranty;
  • a credible battery-health report where available;
  • service and repair history;
  • charging cables and plug compatibility;
  • DC fast-charging capability and charging speed;
  • accident, water and underbody damage;
  • software support and connected-service availability;
  • tyre condition and correct load rating; and
  • whether recalls and updates have been completed.

Arrange an independent inspection by someone competent with that type of vehicle. Do not rely solely on the dashboard range estimate because it changes with recent driving and conditions.

Registration, road charges and incentives

State and territory registration concessions, stamp-duty rules and incentives can change. Distance-based EV charging policies have also faced legal and policy changes. Check the current government rules where the car will be registered immediately before purchase.

Do not build a long-term affordability calculation around a temporary rebate or assume today’s tax treatment will remain unchanged throughout ownership.

Insurance can change the answer

Premiums depend on driver, postcode, repair cost, vehicle value, security, parts access and claims experience—not merely the drivetrain. Some EVs may cost more to insure because of repair methods or limited parts, while other models may quote competitively.

Compare like for like:

  • agreed or market value;
  • basic and additional excesses;
  • choice of repairer;
  • charging cable and wall-charger cover;
  • hire-car conditions;
  • battery exclusions; and
  • modifications and accessories.

A five-year ownership comparison

Create one spreadsheet row for each of these costs:

Cost What to include Common mistake
Changeover Drive-away price less realistic sale or trade-in proceeds Comparing new-car price with the old car’s original price
Finance Interest, establishment, lease and administration charges Looking only at the repayment
Depreciation Purchase price less conservative resale estimate Assuming every vehicle retains the same percentage
Energy Home, workplace and public charging or actual fuel consumption Using the cheapest tariff for every EV kilometre
Infrastructure Charger, switchboard, cabling, approvals and removal if relevant Ignoring apartment or electrical upgrades
Insurance and registration Written quotes and current state charges Assuming they are identical
Maintenance Scheduled servicing, tyres and likely wear items Treating an EV as maintenance-free

Run a favourable, middle and unfavourable scenario. Vary fuel and electricity prices, kilometres, resale value and unexpected repair allowances. If the decision only works under the most optimistic assumptions, it is financially fragile.

A practical decision process

  1. Decide whether a replacement is genuinely needed. Reliability, safety, space and use matter more than fashion.
  2. Record twelve months of driving. Include daily distance, longest regular trip, towing and regional travel.
  3. Confirm charging before choosing an EV. Obtain approval and an electrical quote rather than assuming installation is simple.
  4. Shortlist comparable vehicles. Match size, safety, payload, towing and equipment.
  5. Obtain insurance and finance figures. Use real written quotes.
  6. Calculate five-year ownership cost. Include changeover and depreciation, not just fuel.
  7. Test the difficult journey. Map charging or refuelling under realistic conditions.
  8. Drive each vehicle. Check comfort, controls, visibility, ride, road noise and driver-assistance behaviour.
  9. Read warranty and support terms. Pay particular attention to the EV battery or diesel emissions system.
  10. Choose the option that still works when conditions worsen. Allow for higher prices, reduced range and lower resale.

Mistakes to avoid

  • Buying an EV only to save fuel: The changeover and depreciation may be much larger than the saving.
  • Assuming charging will sort itself out: Confirm the parking, electrical work and approvals first.
  • Using advertised range as guaranteed range: Conditions and use change consumption.
  • Assuming petrol or diesel is automatically cheaper: High-kilometre drivers with home charging may save considerably with an EV.
  • Ignoring public-charging prices: Regular rapid charging may narrow the energy-cost advantage.
  • Choosing diesel for short urban trips: The usage pattern may not suit its emissions system.
  • Forgetting insurance: Obtain a quote for the exact model before committing.
  • Assuming a novated lease is always best: Compare every fee, residual and tax consequence.
  • Buying too much battery: Extra range adds cost and weight when it is rarely needed.
  • Buying too little capability: A vehicle that cannot complete your regular difficult trip will become frustrating.

Frequently asked questions

Is an electric car always cheaper to run?

No. Home charging and lower routine servicing can reduce running costs, but public charging, insurance, tyres, finance and depreciation may narrow or reverse the advantage. Compare total ownership cost.

Should I sell a reliable petrol car and buy an EV?

Not purely to reduce fuel spending without calculating the changeover. Keeping a reliable paid-off car is often cheaper, particularly when you drive relatively few kilometres.

Can I own an EV without home charging?

Yes, but it is less convenient and may cost more. Confirm reliable workplace or public charging near your normal routes, including backup locations and current pricing.

Is diesel still worth buying?

It can be for frequent long-distance driving, heavy towing and load carrying. It may be a poor fit for repeated short trips, and complex emissions or fuel-system repairs can be expensive.

How much EV range do I need?

Enough to complete your longest regular trip with a sensible reserve under realistic motorway, weather and load conditions. Occasional exceptional trips can be planned separately.

Will an EV battery need complete replacement?

Most batteries gradually lose capacity rather than suddenly failing. Read the model’s battery warranty, retained-capacity threshold and independent condition report when buying used.

Are electric cars suitable for Australian country driving?

They can be when the route has reliable compatible charging and the vehicle has enough real-world range. Petrol or diesel remains simpler on many remote routes and for frequent towing.

Verdict: Buy an electric car when you need a replacement, can charge reliably at home, drive enough to benefit and the vehicle comfortably handles your real journeys at a competitive total cost. Stick with your existing petrol or diesel car when it remains reliable, your kilometres are low, charging is difficult or remote travel and towing dominate. The smartest decision is not the newest drivetrain—it is the vehicle that meets your needs without forcing you to pay more overall for savings you may never recover.

Sources and further reading

Published by

Adrian Muller

Better Life Decisions

Honest. Independent. Australian.

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